Alpine Vaca!

What up!

Dope 3 weeks in CO climbing at the alpine spots. Didn’t get to go to Chaos, due to crazy amounts of snow, but it was my first trip to Lincoln so it was all good.  My overall goal for the trip was to complete old projects from two years ago, do some hard lines that I thought were cool and avoid altitude sickness.

So Lincoln was great! The hike took a day or so to get used to, but some really nice lines there!! My favs: Phobos, Great War, gotta get back for that one! And Bebe.

On our second or third day at Lincoln, I met Dave Graham and he was talking about not just cleaning and making boulders climbable for you and crew, but cleaned so someone can do the same boulder you did 20 years from now. I had never thought of it like that. It seems kind of obvious, but I’ve always helped clean something up or assisted in a building a landing for my friends and I to climb. I never got very motivated because I don’t care about myself that much I guess, but thinking of it the way Dave put it was motivating. One day Holly, friends Allan and Daniel and I went to the Cage Free boulder. It was an island! I’d never seen more then a few inches of water under Cage Free. So much water!! At first I was thanking, damn guess we’re screwed today. Then I thought about what Dave was talking about and I thought, It’d be kind of cool to build a landing so everyone can try it and hopefully weeks to come, people can try it as well. So I started collecting dead logs and sticks and after 3 hours had a landing for the Citadel and Cage Free. Besides bouldering, I usually start and quit things.. Seeing the landing go from a river, to a platform and people laying pads on it, taking falls and not getting wet felt really good. It was Kind of a self esteem boost on finishing something you start that isn’t completing a boulder. This sounds a lil lame, but everyone feels that at one time or another, you know. It was also the first time I’d built a landing and wasn’t just the helper who got bored after 20 minutes. I don’t know if this is interesting or not, but it’s Rad to go through the steps, seeing all the ways climbing allows you to relate to real life.

Here are some more highlights and a few pics:

-Holly did Honey Badger(V11) and Unshackled(V10).

-Preston and Brad did Great War(V13).

-Voges got drunk.

-I finished off the crimpy left exit to Dali, Super Gui(V11) at Evans, first go this trip  after big epics a few years back.

-I also completed Big Worm(V14) at Evans after four days of work. DPM interview. Kind of whack…  my style, but I’ve never done V13. Other peeps say Big Worm is soft too. IDK. Don’t really care, just funny. …So, day 4 of working it after a quick hailstorm on our last day in CO, I got lucky with wind, cooler temps, and overcast skies for about an hour and linked it all up! Very very psyched!!!

-Holly met a cool crew of girls that weren’t competitive scenesters.

Word, I’m tired of writing and a lil tipsy from this Liter of Bourbon, so peace!

“I gotta get back to this blunt.” Wayne



3 responses

  1. kid

    v14??? THATS DOPE!!!

    July 4, 2011 at 3:14 am

  2. dude that’s sick!!!! congrats on that send. great work!

    July 4, 2011 at 4:19 pm

  3. Pingback: Colorado Alpine Update | Climbing Narcissist

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